Alhmuz cafe was the one and the only stage and theater in the city of Nablus, at which Om Kolthom and Abdulwahab had sang. From 122 years ago till now Alhmuz cafe is considered as the oldest cafe in Nablus. It is a landmark, that is not only known and recognized by the people of Nablus. But also people from other Arabic countries. Here in Dooz, we are pleasured and honored to tell the stories and bring back the memories of this wonderful cafe. In fact, this article is part of a series that Dooz has done about ancient cafes in Nablus city.
This magnificent place, its big yard with a grapevine covering it, which produce a beautiful reflect of light and shadow. The old golden wooden chairs, which tell us stories of people that used to sit there in those chairs. And the corners on which you can still smell the special scent of the old coffee, that our grandfathers used to make. Also the smoke of their Narghile . All of those yards, halls, walls, chairs and even the tables have witnessed a lot of thing; starting from the happy events and memories to those of war and colonialism. In addition, we will not forget the Turkish people with the red Tarboosh (a fez) who were the first attendees of this cafe; along with the people that had authentic taste of music and sang on the cafe’s stage.
We talked to Raia Waleed Alhmuz _the owner of the oldest cafe in Nablus_ and asked him to tell us about the cafe and its history from the early beginning until today. With cheerful face, overwhelming hospitality and kind demeanor towards his customers he said: “after leaving Hebron to live in Nablus; my grandfather rented 4 shops in Alshwitra Street. After that, in 1892 he established the cafe. Today, Alhmuz cafe is over 120 years of age”.
The cafe in the old days
In the era of the Turks, Alhmuz cafe was very modest and simple. That chairs and tables, were put on the sidewalk along the cafe. In that time, the cafe was consisted of 4 shops with the sidewalk along it. Later on, an agreement was held between the owner of the cafe and the municipality of Nablus city. That convention provided building a large 4 acres_ place instead of the 4 shops. In the past, the goers of the cafe were only elders and quarry workers. In fact, they used to gather in the cafe at the time of dawn to drink tea and coffee, and then they would go to their works.
Picture1: in the past the stage was an integral part of the cafe. It existed at the end of this hall in the picture.
Abu Bashar Abdul Hadi (77 years old) who used to be a regular goer of the cafe says: “ we used to respect the elders very much. That we would not enter the cafe while they are in. When we grew up we became attendees of the cafe, and we used to spend the time chatting and sharing talks with our friends. Besides, Alhmuz cafe has been the most inveterate and preferable cafe in Nablus city. That only influential families of a high social status and employees used to enter this place.
Changes and reinventions
The owner of the cafe Mr.Waleed Alhmuz spoke to us about the beginnings of the changes that were done in the cafe. And said “ when I was 15, I demolished the stage to build the new cafe behind the 4 shops. That was done to make an expansion and give the 4 shops back to the municipality. Adding that, theater time is over. Waleed also added: “the cafe was for elders and theater-goers. That no lad would dare entering the cafe in the presence of those who are older”.
In addition, Mr. Alhmuz has continued modernizing and evolving the place by firstly replacing the floor inside the cafe’s hall into marble. And then installing new windows. As for the outside yard, its ground was of soil before paving it by the municipality. Whereas the roof of the yard has been left open with the grapevine covering it. Beside that, Mr. Alhmuz has changed the yard by adding a fountain and planting various types of flowers in the new tubs at the center of the yard. All these changes have firstly been made to attract the youth and the younger generation. And of course to add a modern touch to the place.
Witnessing history
Alhmuz cafe has witnessed a lot of events and turning points in the history of Nablus city. Like, wars and revolutions. For example, the British mandate had the lion’s share in the memory of the place. That in 1940 the cafe was closed, and people were prevented from entering it. Because the Britons took the cafe and considered it as a military post. When Suleiman Toukan was selected as the mayor of Nablus municipality. He took Alhmuz cafe as a station to his meetings with the English people. In 1927 Nablus witnessed an earthquake, even so, the cafe was not affected at all. Local leaders also had the chance to enter the cafe and sit in it. Furthermore, in 1965_in which was the onset of Fatah movement_ the former Palestinian president Yasser Arafat once secretly met a group of militants at Alhmuz cafe.
Picture2: In the past times of the cafe elders used to attend it. However today, the cafe is basically a home for the youth before others.
Om Kolthom and Abdul wahab
Since the Turkish epoch, the stage of the cafe has witnessed a lot of stories and tales that were told by the storytellers. In addition, the stage itself will never forget those phenomenal famous singers who preformed on it; like Om Kolthom. Mr. Alhmuz says: “ I don’t exactly know how much the ticket of entering the cafe was when Om Kolthom preformed. But it was a bit expensive. And I remember that in those days the cafe was full of people and really crowded. Also, the door of the cafe was locked up. While the kids outside huddled at the door, wishing to hear a little of her voice.” Mohamed Abdul Wahab, Farid al-Atrash and dancer Samia Gamal also visited Alhmuz cafe.
Drinks and games
In Alhmuz cafe there are two types of drinks. Indeed, there are the summer drinks and the winter ones. There are two trees in the cafe; one is a grape tree and the other is a marmalade orange tree. The drink that is made from the marmalade orange(bitter orange) tree is served in summer time: along with other drinks like coffee, tea, tamarind , lemon, sour grapes and Shami berries drink. Whereas in the winter the cafe serves Sahlab ( Sahlab is basically a Turkish beverage. Its ingredients are milk, Starch, sugar and sometimes rose water). The cafe also serves a special cinnamon beverage with nuts. Several herbal drinks are also served in the cafe in the winter time.
In one hand he holds his coffee while as the other holds cards. And then passing the cards as he is playing with his friends. Meanwhile, on another table there sit two oldsters; professionally playing backgammon. And the smoke of their Narghile is rising above their heads. It is true that time has changed. Even though, games such as chess, cards and backgammon have never did. And a lot of people still play these games when they come to the cafe.
Picture3: Old people play backgammon very ably. It is an ancestral game.
The goers of the cafe today.
Recently, the owner of the cafe has modernized the place even more by adding an LCD screen for the young men to watch football matches. Also a WIFI network was added to the cafe. In order for to the visitors to have access to the Internet. Besides, sometimes there are students who come to study in the cafe and they also need to have access to the internet.
The visitors of the cafe are not only from Nablus. In fact, every now and then you can find people from other Palestinian countries and villages, or Jordan sometimes. And don’t be surprised of the fame and the reputation that Alhmuz cafe has in some Arab countries such as: Lebanon, Jordan and Syria. Furthermore, The warm environment of the place and the hospitality of its people attract foreign tourists as well as Arabs. Actually, tourists and foreigners love to sit in Alhmuz cafe. In brief, Alhmuz cafe has been a magnificent, historical place in the history of Nablus city.
Writer: Hiba Bata Photography: Dima Bakir Translated by: Rawan Alamieh
